Wedding Garb
In Samegrelo, depending on the purpose, there were mainly two types of clothing: domestic and for public. Ritual clothes, which were worn during weddings and mourning ceremonies had a specific look. Depending on the wealth, the owner of the clothes sewed the outfits using the best fabrics and various decorative materials.
After the engagement, dowry was prepared for the bride. A rich peasant woman would take a dowry of good property with her including mattress, blankets, bedclothes, kitchenware and dishware, etc. Some might even take a pot for distilling vodka.
Cattle-drover could give his daughter several cattle as a dowry, though giving even a single animal was quiet enough. However, the most important part of a dowry was the baggage or the stock of clothes, which a woman could be proud in her husband's family. They also used to give money as a dowry.
The most solemn set of public garb was a wedding dress. They used to start taking care of the bride's outfit started at since the engagement, when the bridegroom, by the hand of his uncle or brother, sent his bride "Shana" (jewellery) and the fabric for the wedding dress, a shawl and shoes.
In the past, the best option for wedding outfit was a Georgian dress with a belt and a sweetheart neckline. The bride would cover her head with a decorated shawl while the groom would wear traditional Chokha and Arkhalig.
The so-called “Chanticleer” dress, an open-necked and short-sleeved dress began to spread among young people in the early XX century, and then the model became a wedding dress. The upper part of the dress is brought to the body, the lower part is widened towards the end and the fabric piled as a "cloche" (flare). Only a "modistka" (modiste) could make it and for this job one would require five rubles. Along with the mentioned clothes, the bride wore a precious headpiece and white shoes.
For clothing materials, fine wool and silk were chosen, with white being the preferred color. Additionally, it was common to wear a white top with a red skirt and many have also worn a cream or light blue dress for weddings.
High-quality wool and silk fabric of white colour were chosen as the fabric for the wedding clothes. Sometimes a bride wore a white top with a red skirt while other women chose a beige or blue dress.
Wedding ceremony was held in a church or in a cellar where the family had hidden prayer jars. The bride's face was covered with a thin vail and a wedding crown decorated with beads was placed on top.
At the wedding feast, the bride sat veiled at the wedding table until all the gifts (mostly money) were collected. Than the groom would take the veil off the bride’s face and the guest would be able to see her for the first time. The guests would fire guns as a sign of joyfulness.
After the wedding the bridal shawl was used at public events. They took a great care of the dress and would wear it once or twice on the Saint’s day or at a "yarmuka" (funfair). Then they would keep it safe.
Making and taking care of clothes was of special importance. New clothes were stored in chests. According to Arcangelo Lamberti, the wooden tower for storing clothes in the buildings spread in Samegrelo was the strongest of all other furniture. Clothes were often aired so that the damp air of Samegrelo would not damage them. They used strong-smelling antlers, walnut leaves, coriander stalks or garlic against moths. People also believed that the moths would never touch the clothes soaked in the heavy spring rain.
On the day of Eliaoba (Saint Elijah’s day) and on the witches’ eve, all the clothes were carefully hidden, as they believed that the evil souls would sneak into houses at night to cut the clothes into small pieces in order to bewitch the owner.
They also used to sew "angarozi" (amulets) on the inner left side of the clothes to protect themselves from the evil eyes. It was a piece of coloured (mainly black) leather or cloth, which was sewn by hand and often with red thread in the shape of a triangle.
Various items were placed in the amulet and only praying women who made them knew what they contained.
"Women cover their head with a thin and white shawl, which has three gussets – one was touching the back and two others – the shoulders. The shawl is fixed to the head with a hat with gold and silk twine, which resembles a crown. A feather or a beautiful flower was usually attached to this
crown.”
Arcangelo Lamberti